22nd August - running out of time...

It is thanks to the almost inevitable pressures of business back home that I must end my recce here in Tokyo. With a Paris-Dakar trip looming in September, and a million and one things to do in preparation for it I have no choice but to head back - if I had just one more week I'm certian I could have made it to New York but it isn't to be this time. The recce has been a fantastic success and I have loved every minute. From the unexpected wildness of far eastern Turkey, the immensely likeable Turkmen people, the muddy adventures in Kyryzstan and the vast beauty of Mongolia, to the challenge of Siberia's roads and the awesome finale of my midnight ride into Tokyo, the new route is I feel, a great improvement and will bring a huge amount to the 2009 trip. The most imporatant borders and countries have been explored in detail, and we now have the makings of a viable, but challenging route around the world. Bring on 2009 for 4 months of epic, unforgettable adventure!

19th August - Japan - my new stepping-stone to the Americas?

The ferry trip from Vlad to Japan is interesting, but the customs on each side is enough to almost make me lose the will to live. There is just one boat a week and thankfully I have a few days to get the bike processed by Russian customs - those few days are needed! The Japanese side is not much better, and after a full day at the docks I eventually ride the bike off-the pier, and into the wonder that is Japan. As this is a new country on my itinarary I feel I am entering the unknown, and it makes this unique country's impression on me all the more exciting. The perfect roads, perfect order, neat streets and convenience of everything is strange and fascinating. I'm fairly sure that the tattiest and least efficient things in Japan at the moment are me and my travel weary bike. Being able to stop, chuck a few coins in a vending machine in the street and enjoy anything from a hot meal to a cappuchino is fantastic. Such things would not have impressed me quite so much a few weeks back, but after weeks of travel through Central Asia, Mongolia and Siberia, I am now like a kid in a sweet shop. I find Japan an enthralling place, from the faultlessly polite and endearing people, to the lush landscapes and unique culture. I eventually ride into Tokyo at about midnight the following day, and cruising through the humid air on raised expressways is a surreal and very memorable experience. the neon lights and skyscrapers make me feel as though I am riding through a futuristic film set - Blade Runner on a fly-blown F650GS. What a fantastic finale to a simply amazing 7 weeks of adventure.

15th August - Siberia - the long, tough road to Vladivostok

Thankfully, the road north from Ulaanbaatar is perfect tarmac all the way and in a day I am back in Russia and heading towards Vladivostok. This is my new destination thanks to the Kolyma Highway route to Magadan being not viable for me this time around. I have the small matter of the trans-Siberian Highway to deal with. Of the 2,000+ miles ahead of me, there remains over 1,000 miles of rough, bike breaking dirt and potholes. Someone recently told me that you can now ride all the way to Vladivostok on perfect tarmac - I am happy to report that they were very wrong and had clearly never tackled this road in person! I am riding hard as I have fallen behind time, and the bike suffers the consequences with a sizeable crack to the frame. I make it as far as Svobodyi, a small, isolated town off the highway, a long, long way from anywhere. The reputationm of the Siberian people's hospitality proves to be very well founded, and I spend the entire day with Sergei, a local bike mechanic, who happily works from midday, until 2.30am, not only welding the cracked frame, but seeking out and repairing every single fault he can identify. He feeds me, gives me a bed for the night, and sends me back on my way with an enormous, Siberian style bear hug. His work is excellent, and in just 2 more days I am riding, wide-eyed, into the hustle and bustle of the iconic town of Vladivostok. I am at the end of the road and the end of mainland Asia and the sense of achievement and excitement I feel is profound. I sense the need to celebrate, and do so in the hotel bar until the small hours, kept company by a disparate band of travellers, locals and Korean businessmen. Japan, my new stepping-stone to the Americas now beckons, and if Magadan is not possible, I think that the Land of the Rising Sun make a pretty good alternative.

6th August - Mongolia - my new favourite country?

Mongolia does not disappoint from the moment I ride away from the border. The west of the country is a wild, rugged and spectacular place to travel. In this vast country, good tarmac roads are rare and my primary purpose here is to look at how our 2009 expedition will find its way to Ulaanbaatar, the capital. My first day is spent out in the wilderness, trying to find a route north and then east, during which I'm given mare's milk to drink by a lone horse herder, battle my way across a waterlogged bog and even witness a completely unexpected solar eclipse - quite an introduction to this amazing country! There has been enough rain in the past few weeks however, to make some of the key rivers impassable, and after an exhausting, but unforgettable 200 miles of rugged trails I am forced to return back to my starting point and seek out an alternative way east. After consulting with a few clued up locals, I opt for a new, central route. It involves one river crossing, but I am reliably informed that it should be just about passable by now. It is - just! And so, after several tough but rewarding days in the wild I have arrived in the sprawling metropolis of Ulaanbaatar. After nearly 1,000 miles of trails both myself, and the bike, look a bit worse for wear, however I have found an achievable route across this fantastic country. There's no doubt that Mongolia will be one of the biggest challenges faced by the RTW riders next year, but I have no doubt either that it will also be one the great highlights too. From here I will head due north, back to Russia, and perhaps some easier riding for a bit!

1st August - Russia - back to civilisation?

Entering Russia is almost like returning back to civilisation. Suddenly the roads are perfect, there are petrol stations everywhere and I have a palpable sensation that I have returned to Europe for a couple of days at least. I have to make a loop south to reach Mongolia, and from the city of Barnaul it is a deceptively long way through the Altai region to the Mongolian border. The road south thankfully is fantastic - perfect tarmac and beautiful scenery through alpinesque valleys following rushing mountain rivers. Clear skies and pleasantly warm temperatures make for a thoroughly enjoyable ride. As I near Mongolia, so the landscape changes along with the faces of the local population as I once again head back into Asia. After a final camp out in the wild, I ride to the Mongolian border for the most eagerly anticipated part of my journey.

28th July - Kazakhstan - into the wild

The border post between Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan must be one of the most picturesque I have ever been through - and I have been through a lot! The ride into my 14th country on this trip is through a remote and stunning landscape of wide open plains and lush valleys. I ride a couple of kilometres off the main road and set up camp in a pristine wilderness for a great night's sleep under a million stars. All this is in sharp contrast to the Kazakh capital, Almaty, where I find myself the following lunchtime. It is a heaving metropolis of crowded roads, office blocks, bars and nightclubs. After confirming our hotel options I decide to hit the open road once again and begin the ride north. It is a long and hot road to Russia, the cooling breezes of the heights of the Kyrgyz mountains have been replaced with a scorching steppe wind which makes for a tiring couple of days. Eventually, the Russian border appears and the central Asian "Stans" as they are commonly called, are now behind me.

26th July – Mud and landslides in the mountains

Along with Mongolia, I have looked forward to Kyrgyzstan as hopefully a great highlight on my recce. It lives up to my expectations in every sense, although over the last two days the elements have been against me. From the southern town of Osh my recce route would take me on remote tracks through the sparsely populated centre of the country on my way to the capital, Bishkek. Before setting off, a day of unseasonable torrential rain and thunder means that my recce plans will end up being curtailed. I am about 30 miles into my trail ride, and having a fantastic, if muddy ride into the wilds of the Kyrgyz mountains when I come across a large landslide which has covered the road. Unperturbed, I bounce and manhandle the bike through mud and rocks to reach the other side. I continue for another mile before I'm faced with another landslide – and this one is most definitely not going to be passed. I ask a local truck driver who also finds himself stranded at the impasse, if or when it will be cleared. His reply of “maybe today, maybe tomorrow, maybe the next day” is enough to make me turn back to the tarmac and take the new road to Bishkek. Fortunately, that road, although not quite the off-the beaten track adventure I was after, produced one of the best rides I have ever enjoyed. Riding through Kyrgyzstan's many mountain ranges, past horse herds grazing on lush wide valleys, yurts complete with shaggy, bike chasing dogs and simply jaw dropping scenery was an amazing experience that I'll never forget.

23rd July – Following the Silk Route into Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan is famous, above all else, for its great cities. Bukhara and Samarkand in particular live up to everything I was hoping for as two of the great trading cities on the ancient Silk Routes between Europe and China. Bukhara's shining domes, imposing towers and crumbling city walls make for a fantastic stopover. Samarkand too exudes history and the importance that it once held in the region echoes around the fascinating old town. From here it is a long ride to the capital, Tashkent, before heading for my 13 country Kyrgyzstan.

21st July – Turkmenistan – The North Korea of Central Asia?

It took a very long, very hot and tiring 8 hours to get processed through customs on my arrival. Turkmenistan is infamous among travellers for being a difficult place to get to and difficult place to get around. Government regulations mean that I must be accompanied by an official guide at all times, have an official invite and register myself at regular in intervals. With my endlessly cheerful and extremely helpful guide, Vladimir, accompanying me in a 4x4 we set off. During 3 days of travelling, to the sparkling and slightly bizarre monuments of the capital Ashgabat, and then into the sweltering heat of the Karakom Desert, I discover that for all the bureaucracy, Turkmenistan has a wonderfully laid-back atmosphere. The people I meet here are unfailingly polite, welcoming and fascinated by me and my mission. As I cross into Uzbekistan, it is the Turkmen people above all else that have left a lasting impression on me.

17th July – Azerbaijan, the Caspian and rusting ferryboats

After a short delay in fascinating and crumbling Tbilisi in Georgia, I moved on to Azerbaijan. The border crossings have been pleasantly simple and straight forward with helpful border guards fascinated by my motorcycle and my journey. The Azerbi capital, Baku, is a heaving metropolis and major Caspian port, filled with a great assortment of travellers and traders from every nationality in the region. It is from here that I catch my boat to Turkmenistan. A great rusting hulk of a cargo boat is my only option, and with a couple of day's wait I have a chance to go over the bike and respond to e-mails and phone calls. The boat trip itself is a long 24 hours, but soon enough we are docking at Turkmenbashi, and I am getting ready to enter the deserts of central Asia.

13th July – The Badlands of Eastern Turkey

The far east of Turkey was a great, and very pleasant surprise. A vast and beautifully green and lush landscape unraveled before me reminiscent of the rolling hills of Ireland, but all of a sudden Europe seems a long way away. The landscape exuded a wild and remote atmosphere as dark clouds brood over distant mountain ranges. It all adds to a fantastic day on the bike. The highlight came with Mount Ararat, imposing itself on the entire region as it straddles the border with Armenia. As the supposed resting place of Noah's Arc it more than lived up to its biblical heritage and was quite an awe inspiring sight. Great riding, and finally the trip truly feels underway as I cross into Georgia and Azerbaijan.

10th July 2008 - Tracks and trails in Turkey

I have just finished a great recce of some off-road trails in northern and central Turkey - a fantastic chance for the RTW guys to get the feel of their loaded bikes on some reasonably simple trails before the challenges of Kyryzstan and Mongolia.  I have been to the summit of Mount Nemrut today, and the twisting roads in and out of this spectacular region will be good practice for what is to come.  Technically simple gravel tracks, but with hairpin after hairpin, and the odd rough rocky section to keep you on your toes.  The treat at the end of the road is an awsome view, and a well earned bed for the night.  I am now in central Turkey and making my way to the Caucuses - next stop Azerbaijan.

8th July 2008 - Hello blue skies!

It feels as though the travelling has really begun now.  There is a real change in atmosphere moving from the relatively well ordered Hungary into its neighbours, Romania and then Bulgaria.  It is a change that, as a veteran of many hectic parts of the world, I really welcome.  Everything is a little bit rough around the edges, and a little less constrained which is a welcome relief to me.  I get my first instances of ecstatic children waying at me as I pass, and my first instance of the thankfully maleable local police who allowed me to pay an "on the spot" speeding fine with the implicit instruction that this was "our secret"!  The crossing into Bulgaria is one of the best borders I have ever experienced and was a complete surprise to me.  The immense and slightly sinister bridge over the Danube, from one brand new EU country to another, was still able to deliver the atmosphere of the old Soviet era in buckets.  Lots of sunshine, and hopefully much more to come in Turkey tomorrow.

5th July 2008 - Saying goodbye to Blighty

It was a promising start - there were glorious blue skies above when I kissed my beautiful and VERY understanding wife, Kate, goodbye for weeks on the road.  As I rode away the concept of what I was undertaking really didn't register.  The bike purred away beneath me as I made my way to Dover, the English channel, and the world beyond.  It was about 20 miles from Dover that the skies darkened.  They stayed dark and I stayed wet for 3 long days.  Brussels, the Nurburgring, Nuremburg and eventually the Czech republic - and it was riding into the very centre of Prague that the sun finally came out.  The change that a bit of sunshine can bring can't be underestimated, and I found myself humming may way around the impressive sights of this historic city with a new, sunny mood in full flow.  Progress so far has been great and I'm looking forward to more and more sun as I head towards Turkey.

1st July 2008 - All systems go!

Tthe RTW recce will get underway first thing tomorrow morning. With a nice early start all I have to do is pop into London on my way to Dover to pick up my passport with its final visa stamped and then it is off to New York! I will be travelling hard over the next couple of months, but every time I get the chance I will be posting my progress with photos right here. Sign up to the Kudu mailing list to be notified of updates as and when they are published.

23rd June 2008 - Preparations underway

Due to the nature of this trip I will be taking one of our most trusted bikes - my old F650GS. Mat, our highly experienced mechanic, has been given the task of preparing her and trying to predict and prevent every conceivable mechanical problem that may occur. Suspect components have been replaced, worn parts changed for new, every electrical connection cleaned and every moving part lubricated. The bike is ready, complete with shiny new Metal Mule series 2 panniers. The visas are already largely in the bag, apart from Uzbekistan who true to form like to take their time! In just over 1 weeks time I will be on the road and heading for the channel on my way East to New York!

Lee Mears - RTW solo in preparation for 2009

Well organised expeditions through the toughest and most remote regions on the planet don't just happen by themselves! The recce's that we conduct are the toughest kind of travelling there is. Long days, big miles and tough, remote travelling often through unchartered territory. With 20,000 miles around the world solo, in as short a time as possible, Lee will hope to cross all 20 countries, 3 continents and 2 oceans planned for RTW 2009 by the end of August.

Planned recce route:

UK - France - Belgium - Germany - Czech Republick - Slovakia -Hungary - Romania - Bulgaria - Turkey - Georgia - Azerbaijan - Turkmenistan - Uzbekistan - Kyrgyzstan - Kazakhstan - Russia - Mongolia - Russia - Alaska - Canada - USA